The House in Pudukkottai That Woke Up at 5AM

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By 5AM, the house in Pudukkottai was already awake. The old tape recorder would be blaring Pithukuli Murugados songs somewhere inside, and above everything else you could hear the steady creak of the wooden swing moving back and forth. My athai paati — my grandfather’s sister — would often be on that swing, singing “Gopala Krishna Swamy Gokulathiley,” a soft Krishna lullaby . She had been widowed young and lived the rest of her life in that house, and to me she always felt like someone straight out of an RK Narayan story. For us, summer meant Pudukkottai and Gobichettipalayam. A couple of days after the final exam, we would take the overnight Trichy Express from Bangalore, then a bus onward, and by the next morning we would be inside that long, bustling house full of cousins, relatives, and noise. Athai Paati with the kids on the swing The house itself stretched from one street to another, a lon...
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CTR, Vidyarthi Bhavan & Rameshwaram Cafe

The iconic CTR Masala Dosa

Bangalore is home to the best benne masala dosas in the world.  I have had dosas in many places around the world, and I keep coming back to the ones in Bangalore.  Even a simple darshini - a quick stand and eat joint - serves a dosa that lingers in memory.  People often debate Karnataka vs. Tamil Nadu dosas. For me, there’s no comparison. Tamil Nadu dosas are fluffy, while Karnataka’s are crisp, thanks to a touch of rice flakes in the batter. That crisp magic keeps bringing me back.

Anyway, during the current trip, I made my customary stop at CTR (Central Tiffin Room).  Malleswaram itself is a place I miss dearly - the bustle of 8th Cross, the street vendors, the old trees lining Margosa and Sampige roads. And there, on the corner of 9th Cross, stands CTR - unchanged for decades.   

I ordered my favorite masala dosa. The wait always feels the longest, but once it arrived, I was transported. The crisp golden dosa, the chutneys, the sambar on the side, the server (the person who serves the food) balancing multiple plates with practiced ease - it felt like meeting an old friend. CTR’s masala dosas taste exactly as they did 30 years ago.

But could I really call them the best in the world without trying Vidyarthi Bhavan?

For years, inertia kept me from crossing the city to Vidyarthi Bhavan in Basavanagudi. Finally, this trip, I made it.

The mural at Vidyarthi Bhavan

Basavanagudi has its own charm - a South Bangalore counterpart to Malleswaram, equally vibrant and iconic. We reached just before closing time, and I was excited to finally try the legendary masala dosa.

The Khara Bath was sensational, the chutney outstanding. The masala dosa was good but not CTR good. The masala at CTR has a distinct magic, and the crispiness is unmatched. Still, I left knowing Vidyarthi Bhavan deserves its place in Bangalore’s food heritage.


Load Balancing by the server

No Bangalore food trail today is complete without Rameshwaram Café. Open till 1 AM, it’s a hotspot for IT folks and night owls.

Rameswaram Cafe

I walked in with low expectations - surely nothing could rival CTR. But their podi idlis surprised me: unbelievably fluffy, melting in the mouth. The pongal with chutney was another highlight. Cleanliness here was impeccable, and the variety on the menu shows they’re building something for the future.

Still, when it came to masala dosa, CTR remained untouchable.

Rava Dosa at Rameswaram Cafe

Rameswaram Cafe's Masala Dosa

Living in the Bay Area, I sometimes crave that Bangalore flavor. Idly Express/Mylapore comes closest with their dosas, though the masala still has a way to go. It’s the best South Indian option here - but Bangalore’s magic is impossible to bottle.  BTW, there is a fake Rameshwaram Cafe in the Bay Area that is in no way tied to the original one back in Bangalore.  

Just to conclude.  CTR serves the best masala dosas.  Vidyarthi Bhavan serves the best khara bath, and Rameshwaram Cafe the best idlies.  In the end, Bangalore isn’t about one best place; it’s about how every corner offers a memory plated with dosa, chutney, and conversation. 

The fluffy podi idly at Rameswaram Cafe

Khara Bath at Vidyarthi Bhavan

Bangalore’s dosa culture is more than food - it’s nostalgia, tradition, and innovation on a plate. And while new contenders rise, CTR still holds the crown.

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